As she thunders down the palm-fringed, lush green polo lawns of the Desert Palm Polo Club, mallet raised above her head, all eyes are on Sheikha Maitha, daughter of Sheikh Mohammed, the ruler of Dubai.
Fresh from winning the prestigious Cartier International Dubai Polo Challenge just a few weeks earlier, Sheikha Maitha – or, to be correct, Her Highness Sheikha Maitha bint Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum – is today enjoying herself in an informal 'friendly' match.
The small group of spectators watching from the terrace – including several English women with cut-glass accents, more usually to be found treading in the divots at Smith's Lawn, Windsor – savour the speed and grace of the polo ponies as they play out the exciting chukkas. Among them, the club's owner and polo patron, multi-millionaire businessman Mr Ali Al Bawardi, sits watching intently.
A privileged lifestyle, to be sure. But is it one that's open to ordinary holidaymakers? Is it possible to travel to one of the world's most expensive locations, even by Middle Eastern standards, and enjoy all it has to offer, on a budget? Is there such a thing as affordable luxury in Dubai?
Well the answer is yes – within reason. For a start, you don't have to stay in one of the most expensive suites at the Desert Palm to enjoy its sense of luxury and privilege, or to watch a game of polo. Simply book in for afternoon tea, which is served on the terrace (for just £25 per person), sit back, and enjoy the spectacle! But if you do want to stay at this smart boutique hotel, then expect to pay around £600 a night for a one-bedroom private villa with pool – or £250 a night room-only in a chic suite.
Of course, you could always stay at "the world's most luxurious hotel", the Burj Al Arab, which is shaped like the billowing sail of an Arabian dhow and has a fleet of Rolls Royces to chauffeur its pampered guests. But a one-bedroom suite at 'the Burj' will set you back around £1,400 a night, so why not stay instead at the nearby Jumeirah Beach Hotel?
With its wave-inspired architecture, the distinctive Jumeirah Beach Hotel is a much cheaper option: here, an Ocean deluxe twin starts at £285 a night. It's family-friendly too, with swimming pools, restaurants, bars cafes, scuba diving, saunas and spas, plus a Kids' Club for little ones, a 'Hub' for teenagers… and free, unlimited access to Wild Wadi, a water park set in 12 acres, right on Jumeirah beach. Normally £40 for adults and £30 for children, Wild Wadi is free if you're staying at the Jumeirah Beach hotel. Bargain!
If it's glitz and glamour you're after, then head downtown, where you'll find it glittering among the skyscrapers, Maseratis and Lamborghinis. There are hundreds of licensed restaurants, pubs and clubs in this tiny Arab Emirate, which is good news for visitors, but beware – drinking in non-licensed areas, or being drunk in public, are not tolerated in this Muslim country.
Downtown, you'll see the Emirati men wandering around in their cool, flowing kanduras (traditional white robes, also known as the 'dish-dash'). As temperatures can rise to 118 degrees F in summer, those loose-fitting garments make a lot of sense. More likely, they'll flash past you in their open-top sports cars as they cruise along the palm-fringed boulevard known as 'The Walk'. So find a good pavement cafe, sit back and admire the view. Cost? A cup of coffee.
One good place to stay downtown is the five-star Oasis Beach Tower, which is right next door to Frankie's bar, owned by champion jockey Frankie Dettori, and serving menus devised by Marco Pierre White.
Situated in the Dubai Marina area, near "The Walk", the JA Oasis Beach Tower is across the road from a sandy beach, and its air-conditioned apartments, all serviced daily, have fabulous views out over the Gulf. Celebrities love it, and while I was there, I bumped into former England football manager Sven-Göran Eriksson in the hotel lobby. Cost? About £250 a night, for two adults sharing.
Talking of celebrities, Tom Cruise had to make a film, Mission Impossible IV, in Dubai to get to the top of the world's tallest building, the Burj Khalifa – but to admire the spectacular views, all you have to do is take the lift up to its observation deck on the 124th floor (of 160). Be warned, however, for as you shoot skywards, at two floors per second, your ears will go pop. Cost to zoom up to the viewing platform? £22 per adult, if you book in advance.
At the foot of the Burj Khalifa is the Dubai Mall, and it is here you will find all the famous designer fashion and jewellery brands, such as Prada, Tiffany and Rolex. However, if you want designer looks at bargain basement prices, then take a trip out to one of the local souks – expats swear by the Karama district, where apparently you can find a 'good-quality fake' for next to nothing.
While you flex your credit card in the Dubai Mall, the kids can check out the aquarium, where sharks literally swim over their heads. They can also lose themselves for several hours in KidZania – a brilliant children's entertainment centre that replicates a real city. With a choice of over 70 professions, children can wear real uniforms, go to 'work' and earn the local KidZania 'currency'. Cost? Adult £16, child £24.
But back to the grown-ups… be sure to take a night river cruise, and wine and dine by candlelight as the panoramic views of Dubai float by. Bateaux Dubai do one costing £81 per person, including a four-course meal and drinks. Recommended!
Desert Safaris are also good fun… basically, they are a white-knuckle ride across the desert sand dunes by 4x4 Land Rover, ending (if your stomach is still in one place – mine wasn't) with an Arabian-style barbecue, dancing and camel rides. Cost? £70 per person, including the meal.
Also don't forget to check out the amazing restaurants in the luxury hotels. I particularly enjoyed a sumptuous seven-course taster meal in the Rococo restaurant at the Sofitel (Jumeirah Beach), plus a Friday Brunch (a popular weekend pastime for British expats) at the Fairmont Dubai. For £60 per person, there's unlimited food, or for a bit extra you can add on unlimited wine and champagne. Delicious.
Also try the Hukama, a Chinese restaurant at The Address Downtown Dubai, an exquisitely located hotel, right beside the Burj Khalifa, overlooking the fountain displays.
Do indulge in one or two spa treatments. I had an Elemis Oxygen Skin Calm Facial, lasting 75 minutes, at the Ocean View Hotel, in a darkened room with scented candles and calming music. Total bliss. Price: about £80. And finally, don't forget to go in search of some of Dubai's heritage… the Dubai Museum is a good place to start, and it's just 50p for entry.
Affordable luxury? It's by no means a mission impossible.
